Welcome to Pulau Weh - Sabang

Pulau Weh is a beautiful island located at the north western tip of Sumatra. It presents the western most part of the Indonesian archipelago - the world's largest, stretching some 4.000 km to the east.

Pulau Weh, which residents call Sabang after the island’s main town, is ringed with beautiful beaches and amazing dive sites. Its three primary sites for diving and snorkeling are Gapang, Iboih and Rubiah Island, site of the Rubiah Sea Garden Marine Park.

Many rare sea creatures inhabit the park, such as whale sharks, manta rays, sea turtles and dolphins. The coral reefs are breathtaking and provide excellent snorkeling for non-divers.

Many other fascinating sites of interest include a waterfall, volcano and hot springs; plus the Zero Kilometre Monument, the Japanese bunkers from WWII, the historical graveyard, Durian Keramat and Sabang town.

Shopping in Sabang is another interesting experience. The main place to shop is the traditional market where it is possible to buy fresh fruit and traditional food such as dodol, keripik, Sabang cake, and bread, as well as souvenir handicrafts made from coconut wood.

A wide range of accommodations is available on Pulau Weh, ranging from hotels and home-stays to charming beach-side bungalows and cottages.

Prices and facilities vary.

Visitors to Pulau Weh may soon be using its new airport terminal, but for now the island is reached via Banda Aceh by a twice daily passenger ferry and a once daily car ferry.

Transportation on the island consists of minibuses, motorcycles, 3-wheel pedicabs (known locally as becak) and rental cars.
History of Sabang (Pulau Weh)

After the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, the Indonesian archipelago was no longer approached from the south, via the Sunda Strait, but along a more Northern route, via the Strait of Malacca. This partly explains the prosperity of Singapore. Others also hoped to profit from the new route. Among them was the Atjeh Associatie, which operated a seaport and coal station at Sabang. This Association had been established in 1883 by the Factorij van de Nederlandsche Handel Maatschappij (Factorij or Netherlands Trading Society) and De Lange & Co. of Batavia (Jakarta). Sabang had a natural harbour, which was relatively deep and well sheltered. The port was strategically situated on the island of Pulau Weh, which lay off the northern tip of Sumatra's Atjeh province, along the shipping route to Singapore. The harbour was intended as a coal station for the Dutch navy, but later also served merchant vessels. Plans for further development were initiated with a view to reducing the dependence of Dutch and Colonial companies on the harbours of Penang and Singapore in the Straits Settlements. In addition, as initially intended, the harbour was used for the transfer of export goods from Northern Sumatra.

These activities were, however, slow in developing. This changed after Ernst Heldring visited the area during his travels through East Asia between 1897 and 1899. He immediately recognised the potential of Sabang as a harbour for the Dutch merchant and naval fleet, but also realised that a sizeable investment was required to improve port infrastructure. Upon returning to the Netherlands he published a book, "Oost Azië en Indië" ("East Asia and Indonesia"), which contained a chapter on Sabang and its development potential. His report on this matter, which he addressed to the NHM and various other companies, contained convincing arguments favouring further development of the harbour.

Heldring's father, Balthazar, held a seat on the NHM board of managing directors and was even appointed president in 1900. He greeted his son's plans with enthusiasm. He saw to it that the languishing Atjeh Associatie was transformed into the N.V. Zeehaven en Kolenstation Sabang te Batavia (Sabang Seaport and Coal Station of Batavia) in 1899. The project gained further momentum in 1902, when the ageing NHM director Hartsen was replaced by the energetic Van Aalst, who had first-hand knowledge of the situation and had already contributed significantly to the development of Sabang while stationed in Singapore. By 1903, he had arranged a bi-weekly service between the colonial harbour and the Netherlands, jointly operated by Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland (Netherlands Steamboat Company) and Rotterdamsche Lloyd. In addition, he arranged a vital capital injection for the company by bringing in NHM as majority shareholder. The harbour soon reaped the fruits of these efforts and began attracting Russian and Japanese naval vessels, as well as merchant ships sailing under foreign flags.

In 1909 NHM sold all property, docks, quays etc. on the island of Palu Weh to the Dutch State for 1.2 million guilders. The state subsequently let the property to Sabang on long lease. That same year the Naval Department transferred ownership of its 2,800 ton dock (constructed in 1898) to the company, with the proviso that all government vessels would henceforth be allowed to dock free of charge. In 1914 the NHM sold a percentage of its shares in Sabang to the Dutch State, earning profits to the sum of 947,000 guilders.

Despite these developments, Penang and Singapore remained the most important harbour cities for the North Coast of Sumatra. Sabang suffered severe damage during the Second World War, and in 1950, after Indonesia gained independence, the company initiated liquidation procedures. These were rounded off in 1959.

The Raja Ampat Islands (In the Heart of the Coral Triangle)

The Raja Ampat, or “Four Kings,” archipelago encompasses more than 9.8 million acres of land

and sea off the northwestern tip of Indonesia’s West Papua Province. Located in the Coral Triangle, the heart of the world’s coral reef biodiversity, the seas around Raja Ampat possibly hold the richest variety of species in the world.

The area’s massive coral colonies show that its reefs are resistant to threats like coral bleaching and disease —threats that now jeopardize the survival of corals around the world. In addition, Raja Ampat’s strong ocean currents sweep coral larvae across the Indian and Pacific Oceans to replenish other reef ecosystems. Raja Ampat’s coral diversity, resilience to threats, and ability to replenish reefs make it a global priority for marine protection.

Survey Confirms Highest Marine Biodiversity on Earth

In 2002, The Nature Conservancy and its partners conducted a scientific survey of the Raja Ampat Islands to collect information on its marine ecosystems, mangroves, and forests. The survey brought Raja Ampat’s total number of confirmed corals to 537 species— an incredible 75% of all known coral species. In addition, 899 fish species were recorded, raising the known total for Raja Ampat to an amazing 1,074. On land, the survey found lush forests, rare plants, limestone outcroppings, and nesting beachesfor thousands of sea turtles.

Though human impacts here are less severe than elsewhere in Indonesia, Raja Ampat’s natural resources are endangered by over fishing and destructive fishing, turtle poaching, and unsustainable logging. The Indonesian government recently established Raja Ampat as a separate administrative unit, which will give communities a greater say in managing the natural resources upon which their livelihoods depend. This structure also offers an important opportunity to include conservation in the spatial planning of the newly formed local government.

Ensuring Conservation through Partnerships

To address these issues, the Conservancy launched a new project to protect Raja Ampat, working in close partnership with the government and communities to: 1) contribute to a comprehensive conservation action plan to protect Raja Ampat’s reefs and forests; 2) help incorporate marine protected area management into long-term planning and policy; and, 3) establish a network of marine protected areas for Raja Ampat.

The Conservancy’s ultimate goal is to protect Raja Ampat’s magnificent reefs while sustaining the livelihoods of local people. Raja Ampat includes the four large islands of Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati, and Misool, plus hundreds of smaller islands. The archipelago is part of an area known as the Bird’s Head functional seascape, which also contains Cenderawasih Bay, the largest marine national park in Indonesia.

Agroturism, Ubud-style

Nestled among rice fields along the sacred Ayung River, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan gives guests a glimpse into the values that run through this agricultural society.

The day begins with a morning trek through the Ayung river valley. With the help of an experienced guide, guests will traverse picturesque terraced rice fields and jungle paths leading to the banks of the fast flowing river. Along the way, they’ll witness the bucolic activities of the local farmers and learn about the complex irrigation system used in the paddy fields, called a Subak. After working up an appetite on the trek, breakfast will be served in a private bale, surrounded by the vivid green rice plantings and the mirror-like watery surfaces of the terraces.

After breakfast and a demonstration, guests yearning for a taste of the traditional lifestyle of the Balinese will have the opportunity to plant rice seeds. The lives of rural Balinese are dependent on this staple crop, and the farmers who tend it are viewed as artists who sculpt the rice terraces. In Bali, the ability to care for the fields is viewed as a gift.

Following a refreshment break of young coconuts, it’s time to relax the sore muscles and scrub away the dirt of a hard day’s labour in the fields with a river stone bathing ritual, called batukali. Bathing in the river is both an age-old ritual and a social event for the Balinese.

Over the melodious rhythm of the swift flowing water, villagers share laughter, songs, gossip, and stories. The treatment includes an application of fresh herbal blends on the hair and scalp, an invigorating river stone scrub to revive the skin, and a soothing Balinese massage complete with fragrant coconut oil and freshly grated ginger paste to warm and relax the body.

The day’s adventures end with a traditional lunch of Nasi Campur. Nasi Campur, literally meaning “mixed rice”, is an Indonesian dish of red rice topped with vegetables, meat or fish, and other accompaniments that might include egg, tofu, and fried soybean cakes known as tempe. Nasi campur is typical of the everyday Balinese meal that a farmer’s wife might prepare and share with her husband in a small shelter known as a pondok in the rice field. At Four Seasons, the meal will be enjoyed in a private bale along the river and include a memento photograph from the day and the Nasi Campur recipe to enjoy at home.

West Sumatra

West Sumatra is one of the most beautiful areas of Indonesia. It is mountainous and divided by three valleys. There are lovely lakes and spectacular volcanoes. But Minangkabau land is very special and has the most friendly population group of Indonesia. They love to talk with visitors and will tell us about their unique society. If a visitor tries to understand the culture and Minang traditions he will soon feel himself a member of the clan. He will be invited as a guest to their homes - a unique way to become acquainted with real Indonesian life. Most of our hosts and hostesses are English teachers so language will not be much of a problem. They will show us the community and explain their customs.

The land of the Minangkabau, West Sumatra has a distinct culture, which distinguishes it from the rest of the island. A land of scenic beauty with blue green lakes and mountains, West Sumatra's Centre of culture and tourism is Bukittinggi in the highlands, north of the provincial capital of Padang. Most prominent in the landscape is the horn-shaped roofs of the houses nestled in the coconut groves. The name Minangkabau means triumphant buffalo. It leads a community and family life based on a matrilineal system, which clusters around mosques and the traditional houses. As it is the women who have the properties, the men are known for their wanderlust and entrepreneurship. Traveling is considered a mark of success and therefore many of them are found "merantau" (emigrated) to other parts of the country. This is proof that many Minang or Padang restaurants, serve very spicy food, found in all major towns in the nation. The people are hospitable and eloquent in a poetic style of speech and ceremonies. Festivals are colorful occasions.

History
The written history of Minangkabau started in the 14th century, with the introduction of Islam to West Sumatra, at the time of the gold trade with India and Aceh. By the 16th century Pariaman had become the main port, until Aceh people captured the harbour and took over the trade so that all trade from West Sumatra went through Badeh Aceh. Pepper cultivation then started to become important and West Sumatra became a leading pepper production area, involving, firstly, traders from India, China and Portugal and later the English and the Dutch. In 1763 the Dutch captured Padang and built a fortified trading post. The Portuguese Ambassador of that time became the first European to visit the Bukittingi royal palace.

The Minang lived in three valleys, each valley being ruled by a different leader. Their power reached as far as Batak regions and Rajang. The central Minang government lasted until the end of 18th century when the wealth of the gold mines was exhausted and the miners had to find other work. This work was found in the direction of coffee, salt, textiles and gambir (a superior vegetable tannin which proved to be an improvement on the original Chinese product). Islamic traders from the beginning of the Islamic reformation controlled the trade. Kings, Queens and other secular leaders who refused to follow the Paderi (religious leaders) were conquered during this troubled period in what became known as the Paderi wars. The Islamic university is still called Paderi.
In 1821, the Dutch secured their trade by making agreements with King Alam of Pagaruyung. The King gave them the Tanahdatar Valley in which they built Fort de Cock at Bukittingi. From there, they extended their power over the highlands.

The Paderi wars continued until 1837 at Bonjol, named after the most powerful Paderi leader, Imam Bonjol, where their power was broken.
From the beginning of the 20th century West Sumatra played an important role in modernizing Islam, especially in improving education for women. In the twenties many a well-educated student was frustrated by the lack of work. In 1926 the students, with the aid of the Communists, started a rebellion; many rebels were put into Dutch jails in New Guinea, Irian Jajah.

After the Second World War, during the independence struggle, Bukittingi briefly became the capital city of Indonesia; after the Dutch captured Sukarno it was the temporary refuge of the Government. On 1st. January 1950 Sumatra became a province of the newly independent Republic of Indonesia.

Traditional House
Minangkabau Traditional house is called 'Rumah Gadang' that means big house or Rumah Adat that means customary house. It is called Rumah Gadang, because of its big size, but it refers to the big function of the house it self. Rumah Gadang in Minangkabau belongs to all members of relatives along the mother's line called 'kaum'. The function is as the place for all traditional ceremonies like wedding party or inauguration of a head of clan. The original traditional house is made of wood and bamboo for the back wall. The roof is made of palm vibe. It is about 12 to 20 meters long and 6 to 8 meters wide the position of floor is two to two and half meter above the ground.

The location of a traditional house stretch from west to east, while the numbers of the rooms are 3,5,7,9 & even though 17. The construction is expended up with a horn shape roof. The roof looks like the horn of buffalo with 4 to 6 points stretch along the house and a point in addition forward for the front door and ladder. For the expanding form of the construction, there is no any right angle connection to the pillars with the horizontal bars of the house. Both, the upper and lower horizontal bars of the building.

The inside of the house is divided into 4 parts. They are living quarters along one side of that house, which consist of five or more rooms; another side in front of the rooms is a hall for meeting. In some houses, the meeting hall made with a raised floor as the place for the household in a meeting. At both ends of the house are rooms with a higher floor called 'Anjuang'. The rooms at Anjuang are used only for a special occasion, and usually used by a newly married daughter of the family.
The Traditional House is difference based on their clan:

1. Bodi Chaniago traditional houses.
   The house has smooth floor and doesn't have anjuang.
2. Koto Piliang traditional houses
   The house has anjuang.

The traditional house based on their shape:

1. Rumah gadang Rajo Babanding.
   Consists of 5 rooms, 30 poles, 4 slightly horn shapes
2. Rumah Gadang Rajo Maharam.
   Consists of 40 poles. It is called Gajah Maharam because the whole shapes look like elephant that sitting on the floor with the legs together and bent back beside the body.
3. Rumah Gadang Sarambi Papek
   It is smaller than Rumah Gadang Rajo Babanding and consists of 3,4,5 rooms coinciding with the numbers of pole and there is no "paserek" and bedroom here.

In front of the traditional house stands rice barns used to keep food supply namely:

• Sitinjau Lauik
  Located on the left side with 6 poles and functioned as paddy storage to provide the common traditional need of expense.
• Sibayau-bayau
  Located on the right side with 6 poles and functioned as paddy storage for daily need.
• Sitangka Lapa
  Located on the left side with 4 poles and has function as paddy storage for disaster.

The traditional house wall and the rice barns are adorned with colorful carving, that very interesting and has a special meaning reflecting to Minang Philosophy "Alam Takambang jadi Guru" means the whole nature becomes the teachers.